Unsung gems of Europe Part 3. San Gimignano, Italy.

Italy! Scenes of Tuscan laneways with tall trees fading into the distance, stone cottages and ethereal beauty come to mind! Yes, the beauty of this countryside and its surrounds is just that, bellisimo! My next gem takes us to San Gimignano, a small medieval village set in the hills near Sienna. We went by local bus from our base at Sienna for a day trip. As we rounded the corners and slowly crawled our way up the hills, we had time to admire the locals at every stop and marvel at the slow pace of living compared to the manic pace of the bigger cities . We also discovered bus drivers do NOT let you on if you are the slightest bit late, as ours emphatically closed the doors and left one poor local stranded by the road as we took off!

The Bastione San Francesco, part of the walled village.

The first glimpse of this small walled village is impressive. The many tall towers for which it is famous, are set high against the backdrop of blue skies and fine weather. The surrounding countryside is full of vineyards and there is a vista of tiled rooves dotting the surrounding country. This village was a stop for pilgrims in the Middle Ages and Renaissance years on the Via Francigena, the famous pilgrim way. Besides the Vennacia wine, said to inspire poets and Popes alike, the area was famed for its saffron used in cooking and dyeing of cloth. As we made our way up the narrow alleys, I could not help but notice the enormous bottles of vino tempting tourists on both sides, inspiring another generation no doubt of would be writers and poets! Well, I had to try some didn't I, just to find out the truth of the matter! Strong coffee and sweet treats, also gelati, were on the menu at the local cafés in the piazza, and as we wandered off to explore the Collegiate church with its beautiful chapel, many tourist buses started to arrive.

Overlooking San Gimignano, a beautiful Tuscan vista.

 By chance, I discovered one of the most dedicated medieval museums true to my heart! It was a hospital museum showing how herbal remedies were made and dispensed by the monastery for pilgrims and residents of this important stopping place. Actual books, so precious then, have been preserved with delicate drawings of herbs and directions for their use. The windows of the museum revealed a reconstructed herbal garden and an unparalleled view of San Gimignano's towers.






Urns full of herbs for remedies of all ills.

There are some remaining frescoes form medieval times to be found in the chapel of Saint Serefina who was born here in 1238. During the war years, these frescoes and others were saved from the withdrawing German army by the village women. A tall bell also rests on the floor near some delicate frescoes. During the Black Death plague of 1348, nearly half the population died, and the village remained preserved in its medieval state until the 19th century. My Tip: Best to arrive early, as the small village is inundated by tourists once the buses arrive!

View from the museum window.



Five unsung gems of Europe - Part 2

Moving around the countries of Europe by train and bus or ferry, we arrived at many destinations by the back door! My next gems are in Slovenia, which we approached by a magnificent train trip through the Alps from Salzburg. The first snow was dusting the peaks as we went by and many people complete with long poles and gear were setting off at various stations to walk the mountain trails. Slovenia has to be one of the most scenic countries, with its untouched beauty and splendid vistas from mountain lakes to medieval cities.



First snow of the season on the Austrian alps enroute to Slovenia.

Ljubljana: Every expectation I had of Ljubljana was met when we rolled into the station and commenced our short walk downtown to our accommodation in the central area. Foot friendly and welcoming, Lubljiana is famous for its 3 bridges, one of which the Dragon Bridge, was one of  the first arched concrete construction bridge in Europe during the time of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It has many sheeted copper dragons along it and 4 above, the dragon being the symbol of Slovenia. The Triple bridge is also nearby. There are many beautiful churches including the cathedral to visit together with Ljubljana castle overlooking the medieval layout of the city. A funicular serves as a shortcut to the 12th century castle and Outlook tower, with a museum to visit and outdoor café to enjoy. While we were there, we enjoyed romantic dinners by the river serenaded by violins. There was also a festival with unusually tall human figures on stilts processing through the city. Art shops and bookshops delighted me as well! Ljubljana, truly a gem of modern Europe!




The mighty dragon symbol of Slovenia on Dragon Bridge.



Stilt walkers in downtown Ljubljana.



Triple Bridge, Ljubljana.



Looking across Lake Bled to the monastery.




















Rowboats on Lake Bled.

From the monastery steps looking across the lake.

Lake Bled: We travelled the short distance by bus to Lake Bled for a day trip from Ljubljana. Words fail me here as there is nothing to compare with the untouched beauty of the lake which was revealed before us!  It is a tourist magnet that lives up to its reputation as powered boats are prohibited from using the lake environs. In fact, the European rowing championships are held here. The water is crystal clear and full of mirror images. To get to the monastery in the middle of the lake you can row yourself or like us be punted across by a willing  young man! We met up with many young people who come to pay their respects to their heritage in this way as the monastery is a significant site for them. There is a small museum and an eating area and  the whole island can be circled in fifteen minutes before returning. A magnificent castle that overlooks the lake can be visited too, or you can stroll like us around the lake enjoying the sunshine or having a cappuccino or vino or two at one of the many restaurants! Lake Bled, another true gem of Eastern Europe!